🚨 If a raccoon has bitten or scratched a person, call your local animal control immediately and seek medical attention today — do not wait.
Wildlife Rescue Guide

Found a raccoon
that needs help?

Use our step-by-step decision guide to figure out exactly what to do — then read our in-depth rehabilitation reference below. Most raccoons people "rescue" don't actually need help. Let's find out what yours needs.

🔍

What Did You Find?

Answer a few questions and we'll tell you exactly what to do.

What did you find?
Choose the option that best describes your situation.
Where is the kit, and is the mother around?
This is the most important question. Most "orphaned" kits have a mother nearby.
Is the kit warm and calm, or showing distress?
A calm, warm kit near a den site is very likely waiting for its mother — who may be foraging and will return after dark.
How long has the kit been alone?
Timing matters — a mother will return to retrieve her young if given the opportunity.
How is the raccoon behaving?
Adult raccoon behavior tells you a lot about whether intervention is needed.
✓ Likely Fine
Wait and Watch — Don't Rescue Yet

This kit is most likely temporarily separated from its mother, who is probably foraging nearby and will return — often after dark. Premature rescue is one of the most common mistakes people make.

1
Do not pick up the kit. Your scent can make the mother hesitant to approach, though she will not permanently abandon her young because of human smell.
2
Observe from a distance for at least 4–6 hours, ideally until after dark. Mother raccoons often retrieve kits after human activity in the area has ceased.
3
If the kit is cool, you can gently place a heating pad on LOW under half of a box, cover with a cloth, and set the kit on the warm side — giving it a way to move off the heat if it gets too warm.
4
Do not feed or give water. Formula and water given incorrectly can be fatal to young kits. Wait for a professional.
5
If the mother has not returned by morning, call a licensed wildlife rehabilitator. The kit likely needs professional care at that point.
⚠ Caution — Act Carefully
Warm the Kit, Then Wait for Mom

A cold kit is a kit in trouble — hypothermia can be fatal quickly. Warm the animal, then give the mother another chance to return before calling for help.

1
Warmth is the priority. Place a heating pad on LOW under half a shoebox or small container lined with a fleece cloth. Place the kit so it can move toward or away from the heat.
2
Do NOT feed the kit, especially if it is cold — a cold animal cannot properly digest food and aspiration is likely. Warmth first, always.
3
Place the warmed kit near where you found it in a box with air holes, once it's warmer. The mother's hearing is acute and she may come to retrieve it if she hears it calling.
4
Call a wildlife rehabilitator now to be ready. Even if the mother returns, a cold or distressed kit may still need assessment.
🚨 Action Needed
These Kits Need a Wildlife Rehabilitator

Orphaned raccoon kits require specialized care that goes well beyond what most people can safely provide. Your most important job right now is to keep them warm and get them to a professional quickly.

1
Provide warmth immediately. Heating pad on LOW under half a container, fleece cloth, no loose bedding that could entangle tiny kits.
2
Do not feed anything — not milk, not water, not formula unless a rehabilitator specifically instructs you. Incorrect feeding can cause fatal aspiration pneumonia.
3
Call a licensed wildlife rehabilitator right now. Use NWRA's finder or The Humane Society's directory to find one near you.
4
Keep them quiet and dark. Stress kills small kits. Minimize handling, voices, and stimulation while you arrange transport.
5
Transport carefully. Keep the container warm during transport. Don't let kits get chilled on the way — even a short car ride can be dangerous if cold.
✓ No Action Needed
Leave This Raccoon Alone

A healthy adult raccoon going about its business is not in need of rescue. Wild raccoons are meant to be wild — the best thing you can do for this animal is give it space.

1
Do not approach, corner, or touch the animal. Even a healthy raccoon will bite if it feels threatened, and bites require medical assessment.
2
Do not feed it. Feeding wild raccoons creates dependency and habituation, which ultimately harms the animal and creates conflicts with neighbors.
3
Secure your property if this raccoon is accessing garbage, pet food, or attic spaces. Removing attractants is the long-term solution to raccoon conflicts.
⚠ Do Not Approach
Possible Distemper or Rabies — Keep Distance

A raccoon that is stumbling, circling, seizing, or displaying other neurological symptoms needs professional intervention — but not from you. This is a call for animal control.

1
Do not touch, approach, or attempt to contain the animal yourself. Keep children and pets indoors and away from the animal.
2
Call your local animal control agency immediately. They have the equipment and training to handle this safely.
3
Note the location so animal control can find the animal. If you can safely watch from a window, track where it goes.
4
If anyone has been bitten or scratched, seek medical attention immediately — do not wait for symptoms.
🚨 Needs Professional Help
Injured Raccoon — Call for Help

Injured wild animals are unpredictable and can inflict serious bites even when severely hurt. Do not attempt to restrain or transport an injured adult raccoon without training and equipment.

1
Do not pick up the animal with bare hands. If you must contain it, use thick gloves, a large blanket, or a trash can with a lid.
2
Call a wildlife rehabilitator who handles adult raccoons — not all do. Alternatively, call animal control; they can often transport injured wildlife.
3
Keep pets and children away from the animal. An injured raccoon is stressed and may bite defensively.
4
If hit by a car, keep the animal contained in a darkened space (a covered box or trash can) while awaiting help — darkness reduces panic and stress.
⚠ Use Caution
Assess the Situation Carefully

A raccoon approaching humans could be ill — or could simply be a habituated animal that has learned humans provide food. The distinction matters.

1
Watch for neurological signs: stumbling, circling, excessive salivation, disorientation, or unusual aggression. If present, call animal control immediately.
2
If the raccoon seems alert and coordinated, it may simply be a habituated animal. Make loud noises, clap your hands — a healthy raccoon will be startled and retreat.
3
Never feed a wild raccoon to get it to leave — this reinforces the behavior that brought it to you.
4
If in doubt, call animal control — they can assess whether the animal poses a public health risk.

🔎 Find a Wildlife Rehabilitator Near You

Licensed rehabilitators are your most important resource. Most work as volunteers. Many specialize in specific species — always confirm they handle raccoons.

In-Depth Reference

The Complete Rehabilitation Guide

For wildlife rehabilitators, veterinary students, and anyone who wants the full picture.

Identifying Age in Orphaned Kits

Accurately estimating a kit's age is critical for providing appropriate care. The following markers allow reasonably precise age estimation even without a birth date.

Visual Age Markers

Raccoon kits develop rapidly and predictably. Several physical characteristics reliably correspond to age, allowing caregivers to estimate developmental stage without knowing the animal's actual birthdate.

Neonatal (0–2 weeks)

  • Eyes and ears sealed shut
  • Sparse, sparse short fur — skin visible through it
  • Mask faintly visible as dark skin
  • Weighs 75–150 grams
  • Cannot thermoregulate — fully dependent on heat source
  • Makes quiet clicking/mewing sounds
  • Cannot urinate or defecate without stimulation

Young Kit (3–5 weeks)

  • Ears begin to open around day 18–23
  • Eyes open between day 21–28
  • Mask and rings now clearly visible
  • Fur denser, covering body fully
  • Weighs 150–250 grams
  • Begins crawling; still unsteady
  • Very vocal — high-pitched trilling

Transitional (6–8 weeks)

  • Eyes fully open and functional
  • Begins attempting to climb
  • Starts showing interest in solid foods
  • Weighs 250–500 grams
  • Thermoregulation improving but still needs supplemental warmth at night
  • Begins grooming self

Juvenile (9–16 weeks)

  • Fully mobile; confident climber
  • Transitioning to solid food
  • Weighs 500g–1.5kg
  • Full thermoregulation achieved
  • Extremely active, curious, investigatory
  • Social behaviors becoming prominent
  • Requires larger, enriched housing

Weight as an Age Proxy

Body weight is one of the most reliable age proxies in raccoon kits when raised under consistent nutritional conditions. The following table provides general estimates — individual variation exists, and malnourished kits will be underweight for their developmental age.

Approximate AgeExpected WeightKey Developmental Marker
Birth75–90 gramsEyes and ears sealed; hairless appearance
1 week100–130 gramsFaint fur visible; mask faintly present
2 weeks130–180 gramsEars beginning to separate
3 weeks180–230 gramsEars open; beginning to crawl
4 weeks230–300 gramsEyes opening; mask distinct
5–6 weeks300–450 gramsEyes fully open; mobile
7–8 weeks450–600 gramsClimbing; interest in solid food
10–12 weeks700g–1.2kgWeaning; solid food primary
16 weeks1.2–1.8kgLargely independent; pre-release
⚠ Underweight Kits A kit that weighs significantly less than expected for its developmental age (based on eye/ear opening status and fur development) is likely malnourished and may have been orphaned for some time. These animals need aggressive but careful supportive care and immediate veterinary assessment.

Warmth & Initial Stabilization

Hypothermia kills more orphaned kits than any other single cause in the first 24 hours. Correct warmth is your most important intervention before any feeding occurs.

Why Warmth Comes First — Always

Young raccoon kits (under ~5 weeks) cannot thermoregulate — they have no ability to generate or retain their own body heat. Their body temperature rapidly equalizes with their environment. A cold kit has a slowed metabolic rate, impaired circulation, and — critically — an impaired ability to digest food. Feeding a cold kit is one of the most common and deadly mistakes in wildlife rehabilitation. The formula pools in the stomach undigested, ferments, and causes potentially fatal bloat or aspiration.

The sequence is always: Warmth → Stabilization → Hydration → Feeding. Never skip steps.

📌 The Golden Rule A kit that feels cold to the touch is hypothermic. Do not feed it. Warm it first. A kit should feel warm (not hot) and be active and alert before any feeding is attempted.

Setting Up a Proper Heat Source

The goal is a gentle, consistent heat source that the kit can move toward or away from — never direct, enclosed heat with no escape. Overheating is also dangerous.

    ✓ DO

  • Use a heating pad set to LOW under half the container
  • Allow the kit to move off the heat if too warm
  • Use a fleece cloth or similar soft bedding over the heating pad
  • Check the kit every 30 minutes
  • Target ambient temperature of 85–90°F for neonates, 80°F for older kits
  • Use a small thermometer to verify temperature in the warm zone

    ✗ DON'T

  • Put a kit in direct sunlight (temperature unstable)
  • Use a heat lamp without careful monitoring (can overheat rapidly)
  • Use terry cloth towels (claws get caught)
  • Use loose materials like cotton balls (inhalation risk)
  • Place heating pad on HIGH or MEDIUM
  • Assume "warm" means "okay to feed" — check behavior too

Assessing Recovery from Hypothermia

A hypothermic kit will be limp, unresponsive, and may feel cold or clammy. Recovery typically follows a predictable sequence over 1–3 hours of proper warmth: first the kit becomes more responsive to touch, then begins vocalizing, then begins moving. Only once the kit is actively moving and vocalizing and feels warm to the touch should you consider hydration. Begin with oral electrolytes (Pedialyte, unflavored) before formula — this rehydrates while gently challenging the digestive system.

💡 The Righting Reflex Test Place the kit on its back. A healthy, adequately warm kit will attempt to right itself within a few seconds. A kit that lies flat without attempting to right itself is still compromised and not ready for feeding. Continue warming.

Feeding Orphaned Kits

Correct formula, correct technique, and correct frequency are all essential. Incorrect feeding is the leading cause of death in raccoon kits under human care.

What Formula to Use

The gold standard for orphaned raccoon kits is Esbilac puppy milk replacer (powder form, not liquid) or Fox Valley 20/50 formula. KMR (kitten milk replacer) is an acceptable second choice but has a different nutrient profile that may cause loose stools.

Under no circumstances should you use cow's milk, evaporated milk, soy milk, human infant formula, or goat's milk. These cause severe diarrhea, dehydration, and can be fatal. Even well-meaning improvised alternatives cause harm.

Kit AgeFormula ConcentrationVolume per FeedingFrequency
0–1 week1 part powder : 2 parts water2–3 mlEvery 2–3 hours, including night
1–2 weeks1 part powder : 2 parts water4–6 mlEvery 3 hours
2–3 weeks1 part powder : 2 parts water6–10 mlEvery 3–4 hours
3–5 weeks1:2 transitioning to 1:1.510–15 mlEvery 4 hours
5–7 weeks1 part powder : 1.5 parts water15–25 mlEvery 4–5 hours
7–9 weeksBegin introducing softened solid foods alongside formula25–35 mlEvery 5 hours + solid food
⚠ Aspiration is the Biggest Risk Formula that enters the lungs — from feeding too fast, too much, or at the wrong angle — causes aspiration pneumonia, which is often fatal. If formula comes out of the nose during feeding, stop immediately. The kit may have aspirated. Seek veterinary advice.

Feeding Technique

Use a 1–3 ml syringe for neonates, or a small animal nipple (O-ring type works well) for older kits. Feed slowly, allowing the kit to set the pace. Hold the kit in a natural nursing position — upright or tilted slightly, never on its back (aspiration risk).

Feed until the kit's abdomen is gently rounded but not tight or distended. A distended, hard abdomen is a sign of overfeeding or gas. If the kit pushes the nipple away or slows down, stop — do not force more formula. Overfeeding causes diarrhea, which leads to dehydration and electrolyte imbalance.

💡 Warm Formula Correctly Formula should be body-temperature warm — test on your wrist like baby formula. Cold formula causes digestive upset. Hot formula burns. Mix fresh formula for each feeding and discard leftovers — formula left at room temperature for more than an hour begins to harbor bacteria.

Stimulation for Elimination

Kits under approximately 4–5 weeks cannot urinate or defecate without stimulation. The mother raccoon licks the anogenital area after each feeding to trigger elimination — in rehabilitation, you replicate this with a warm, moist cotton ball or soft cloth gently rubbed in circular motions over the area after every feeding.

Normal urine is pale yellow. Bright yellow or orange urine indicates dehydration. Normal stool for formula-fed kits is pale yellow and somewhat soft — not watery. Watery, green, or bloody stool is a veterinary emergency. Failure to defecate for 24+ hours after the kit has been eating may indicate constipation; consult a rehabilitator or vet.

Introduction of Solid Foods (7–12 weeks)

Begin offering softened, easily manipulable foods around 7 weeks when kits begin showing interest in smelling and mouthing objects. Good starter foods include: softened high-quality kitten kibble, small pieces of cooked chicken or egg, fresh blueberries and cut grapes, mealworms, and small pieces of cooked sweet potato.

Introduce one new food at a time, watching for digestive upset. By 10–12 weeks, a healthy kit should be consuming a varied diet that closely mimics wild raccoon food — variety is important, as raccoons in the wild eat dozens of food types and need to develop preferences and foraging skills for all of them.

Development Stages & Milestones

Understanding what a kit should be doing at each stage helps you assess its health and ensure its development is on track.

The First Eight Weeks: Rapid Change

Raccoon kits develop faster than most people expect. The period from birth to eight weeks encompasses an enormous range of physical and behavioral development — from completely helpless neonates to mobile, curious explorers beginning to interact with their environment.

Key milestones: ears open (days 18–23), eyes open (days 21–28), first attempts at standing (around 4 weeks), climbing (5–6 weeks), interest in solid food (6–7 weeks), active play (7+ weeks). Any significant delay in these milestones may indicate nutritional deficiency, illness, or neurological issues.

📋 Note on Individual Variation Raccoon development shows meaningful individual variation — kits from larger litters may develop slightly more slowly, and individual genetic differences affect timing. Use milestones as rough guides, not rigid benchmarks. A kit that hits all milestones but on a slightly shifted timeline is usually not cause for concern.

Play and Behavioral Development (7–16 weeks)

Play begins around 7 weeks and rapidly becomes the dominant behavior of healthy kits. Wrestling, chasing, paw-grappling, and object manipulation are all normal and necessary — play develops the physical coordination, social skills, and foraging techniques kits will need in the wild. A kit that does not engage in play or seems lethargic when it should be active is a concern.

Object investigation — picking things up, manipulating them, dunking them in water — begins around 7–8 weeks and reflects the development of the raccoon's extraordinary tactile intelligence. Provide a variety of objects, textures, and materials to encourage this. Water dishes should be provided; kits will inevitably dunk everything in them.

The Critical Socialization Window

Between approximately 5 and 12 weeks, kits are in a sensitive period for social attachment. During this time, they are highly predisposed to form bonds — with siblings, with their mother, or with the humans caring for them. This socialization window is why proper rehabilitation protocol minimizes human contact and maximizes contact with raccoon conspecifics.

Kits raised in isolation from other raccoons during this period often develop abnormal social behaviors and struggle to integrate with raccoon groups — which is essential for pre-release socialization. Whenever possible, orphaned kits should be housed with same-age or similar-age conspecifics from as early as possible.

Housing & Environmental Enrichment

Raccoon kits grow fast and need increasingly complex environments to develop properly. Housing that is appropriate at four weeks is woefully inadequate at twelve.

Neonatal Housing (0–5 weeks)

Young kits need a small, warm, dark, quiet space. A cardboard box or plastic container 12–18 inches across is appropriate, lined with fleece and placed on a heating pad (on LOW, under half the box). The box should have ventilation holes but no gaps large enough for a kit to wedge itself into.

Keep the environment quiet. Loud sounds, bright lights, and frequent handling all cause stress that suppresses immune function in young animals. The rule: interact as little as is required to provide proper care, and make those interactions efficient.

Transitional Housing (5–10 weeks)

Once kits are mobile and climbing, they need a larger enclosure — a wire dog crate (medium size minimum) with multiple vertical levels to climb. Provide branches, rope toys, and a nest box they can hide in. Raccoons are climbing animals from a young age; an enclosure without vertical space stunts normal behavioral development.

Water dishes large enough to dunk paws in should be provided — the dousing behavior develops around this age and serves important tactile development functions. Expect everything to end up in the water dish. Replace water frequently.

💡 Nest Box is Essential Raccoons of all ages in rehabilitation need a dark, enclosed hide space — a nest box (a wooden box with a 4-inch entry hole) where they can retreat and feel secure. Kits without a hide space show elevated stress behaviors. The nest box also provides a gathering point for social animals being housed together.

Pre-Release Outdoor Enclosure (10+ weeks)

By 10–12 weeks, kits should be transitioned to an outdoor enclosure that exposes them to natural weather, temperatures, sounds, and — critically — natural foods they'll need to forage for in the wild. A 10'x10'x8' minimum outdoor pen with natural substrate (dirt, leaves, logs) and live browse is the gold standard for pre-release raccoons.

Live prey items — mealworms, crickets, crayfish — should be introduced in the outdoor enclosure so kits can practice natural foraging behaviors. Scatter feeding (hiding food items throughout the enclosure) rather than bowl feeding encourages foraging behavior and reduces food-begging behavior directed at humans.

Imprinting & Human Socialization

Imprinting on humans is the single biggest threat to successful raccoon rehabilitation. Understanding it — and actively preventing it — is one of the most important aspects of raccoon care.

What Is Imprinting?

Imprinting refers to the process by which a young animal learns to identify with a particular species — normally its own — during a sensitive developmental window. In raccoons, this window is broad (roughly 5–12 weeks) and potent. A kit that receives consistent, warm human contact during this period may develop a primary attachment to humans rather than to raccoons.

An imprinted raccoon doesn't fear humans, seeks out human contact, and lacks the wariness of people that wild raccoons require to survive. Such animals cannot be safely released — they will approach humans in situations where that approach creates risk for both the raccoon and the person.

Prevention Protocols

Professional rehabilitators use several techniques to minimize imprinting. All of these require discipline and are sometimes emotionally difficult — a curious, affectionate raccoon kit is genuinely charming, and resisting the urge to interact is hard.

    ✓ DO

  • House kits with other raccoons whenever possible
  • Use the minimum handling required for proper care
  • Wear a face covering during feeding so kits don't bond to your face
  • Make interactions quiet and businesslike — not warm or playful
  • Let raccoons direct social play toward each other, not humans
  • Transition to outdoor housing as early as appropriate
  • Scatter-feed so animals forage rather than beg

    ✗ DON'T

  • Hold kits against your body for comfort or warmth
  • Play with kits using your hands (use toys only)
  • Let kits sleep on or near you
  • Allow children to interact with kits "just to look"
  • Share food from your hand or your plate
  • Name kits in ways that encourage you to think of them as pets
  • Allow extended handling by multiple people
⚠ Imprinted Animals Cannot Be Released A fully imprinted raccoon cannot be safely released to the wild. It will approach humans — including those who may harm it, fear it, or report it as a "problem animal." Most imprinted raccoons face euthanasia or permanent captivity because no suitable long-term placement can be found. The best thing you can do for a young raccoon is to raise it to be a raccoon, not a pet.

Release Protocol

A successful release is the culmination of months of work. Timing, site selection, and release method all dramatically affect survival outcomes.

When Is a Raccoon Ready for Release?

Release readiness involves several criteria — physical, behavioral, and seasonal. A raccoon that meets physical criteria but hasn't developed appropriate wild behaviors is not ready. A raccoon that is behaviorally ready but is being released at the wrong time of year faces higher mortality.

CriterionReadyNot Ready
Age16+ weeks minimum, ideally 20+Younger kits lack survival skills
Weight1.5–2.5 kg minimumUnderweight animals have reduced winter survival
BehaviorFearful of humans, foraging independently, social with conspecificsApproaches humans, food-begs, won't forage
SeasonLate summer–early fall (July–October)Late fall or winter — insufficient time to establish territory and accumulate fat
HealthFull exam, current on rabies (where legal) and distemperAny active health issues

Site Selection

Release sites should provide: access to water, sufficient food resources for the season, appropriate den sites (hollow trees, brush piles), and minimal road exposure. Proximity to the original capture site is preferred when possible — raccoons released in unfamiliar areas face higher mortality as they spend energy establishing territory in unknown terrain.

Release groups of animals together whenever possible — raccoons from the same cohort that have bonded during rehabilitation form a social support network that significantly improves post-release survival. Solitary releases of single animals have noticeably lower survival rates than group releases.

Soft Release vs. Hard Release

A hard release — opening a transport box and leaving — is appropriate for older, fully wild raccoons that were recently injured and rehabilitated. They have established territories and established skills; they simply need to be returned to their environment.

A soft release is appropriate for hand-raised raccoons. The animals are placed in an outdoor enclosure at the release site for 1–2 weeks before the enclosure door is opened, allowing them to habituate to the area, learn local food sources, and make the transition gradually. A feeding station at the site can be maintained for several weeks post-release, then gradually phased out as the animals establish foraging patterns.

💡 Survival Rates Well-run rehabilitation programs release raccoons with survival rates in the first year that are comparable to wild-born animals in their second year of life — roughly 60–75%. Poor protocol (imprinted animals, wrong season, underweight, no conspecific socialization) drops survival rates dramatically. The quality of rehabilitation genuinely matters.